ALPINE SITES IN MACEDONIA

In this occasion we will convey the survey of the Alpine sites in Macedonia in compliance with the geographic division of the Republic of Macedonia. This survey refers to the most frequently used alpine climbing sites in Macedonia.
The greatest alpine sites situated along the river Vardar are: Matka, in the vicinity of Skopje and Demir Kapija in southern part of the course of the river Vardar. Apart from these, there are possible alpine activities in the Peshti site, near Veles, Sapunjica and Chichi Kaj on Kozuv, Kitka in the vicinity of Skopje and some others.
The biggest alpine sites in the western part of the country are: Leshnica on Shar Planina, Solunska Glava on Jakupica, Ostra Karpa (The Sharp Rock) and Stogot on Selechka Planina. Apart from these, there are also possible alpine activities in the in the regions of Korab, the valley of the river Radika, Bistra, Pelister, Galichica and other sites.
The alpine sites in the eastern part of the country are not very well explored; however, there are many interesting regions in the surrounding of the following towns Shtip, Radovish and Strumica.

MATKA

The alpine and sport climbing site Matka is situated in the canyon of the river Treska, at a distance of approximately 10 km south-west from the city of Skopje. Matka can be reached by car, on an asphalt road or by local bus transportation, no. 60, which commutes regularly from the center of the town to Matka.
The alpine and sport climbing directions are located on the rocks which can be found on both sides of the canyon, where a dam is built and thus an artificial lake has been created. Matka is the core of the alpinism in Macedonia, and Matka reveals a lot points from the history of our alpinism.
It is possible to be accommodated in the mountain house “Matka” which is open during the whole year, and the same is located on the coast of the artificial lake. It can be reached by a decent path, 15 minutes from the parking place, i.e. the last bus station. There are about 50 beds within the mountain house. Also, there is a possibility for restaurant food service in the house.

You can also camp in tent on Matka, mainly on two different sites:
In the yard of the mountain house “Matka” and in the yard of the Monastery St. Nicola Shishevski, which is situated on the opposite side of the lake. The camping in the Monastery St. Nicola Shishevski is free of charge.
Matka’s rocks, according to their composition are a lime rock, characterized with mild compactness. The alpine and sport climbing directions are located mainly on five sites: “Centrala”, “Otmarova Karpa”, “Rock near the House”, “Matkino Trlo” and “Matka’s picks”.
The number of the alpine directions is approximately 40, weighing from III to VII and A2, according to UIAA, and length ranging from 150 to 200 meters. All the alpine directions are well secured with in situ.
The alpine and sport climbing directions, which are approximately 30, weigh from VI+ to IX, according to UIAA. All the alpine directions are well secured with spit wedge. Their length varies from 15 to 40 meters.
The most suitable periods for climbing Matka are from March to June, as well as from September till the late November, but this does not mean that during the winter months you cannot enjoy from time to time in the pleasant spring temperatures.
There is a guide for the alpine and sport climbing directions on Matka, which can be acquired in the mountain house.

DEMIR KAPIJA

Demir Kapija is considered to be of best quality rock regarding its ingredients in Macedonia. It is comprised of pure lime with excellent compactness.
The rock can be reached by the highway Skopje-Thessalonica, you can leave the vehicle on the parking place between the two remarkable tunnels on the highway, where, exactly on the parking you can find several alpine directions and a possibility for a variety of interesting sport climbing directions. The other access is from the Demir Kapija settlement, through the fields by the railroad track. If you take the highway road, you should turn left from the first channel and go straight on the marked path, you should first climb up one part of the rock, and afterwards you climb down by the river Vardar, where you can see a huge number of directions.
Unfortunately, there is no guide book for the alpine and sport climbing directions, so the rock is interesting, above all, for the new climbing adventure fans. The possibility for protection within the rock is great; however, it enables usage of wedges, chokes, friends, practically everything. The length of the alpine directions is approximately ranging from 200 to 300 meters.
The best accommodation is in tents by the river Vardar.
The most suitable periods for climbing are from March to June, as well as from September till November, same as climbing Matka.
You can obtain additional information from the President of the Macedonian Alpine Association.

LESHNICA

Leshnica is considered to be one of the most picturesque regions in the core of Shar Planina, the most beautiful massif in our country. The alpine sites in the region are disseminated on an area with 10 km of radius. Leshnica is, foremost, attractive for the winter alpinism, since it offers possibilities for all different winter alpinist appetites: freeze corridors, 300 to 700 meters in length, combined corridor and rock climbing, iced waterfalls (about 10), 10 to 30 meters in length, perfect terrains for extreme ski-alpinism with a potential for organization of contests. Bearing in mind the fact that Leshnica is surrounded by the highest picks of Shar Planina, of about 2700 meters and huge areas on the height of more that 250 meters with thick snow cover from November till May, which provides ideal conditions for the preparations of the expeditions. The site faces with typical winter alpine problems from the extreme weighs, and the climbing ambient is completely alpine.
The site is mainly pure. In the previous 15 years, people started to climb Leshnica intensely, but no one succeeded in climbing more than 15 percent of the climbing site.
The rock, according to its composition is lime which can be easily broken, significantly lowered in the winter period when the temperatures go to the 30 degrees below the zero, the sites interesting for alpinism are mainly exposed on North, but also there are some on West and South. Having in mind that it is about winter climbing, the alpine tracks are not secured enough.
Access. You can reach Leshnica through different directions, but the best access during winter is the ski center Popova Shapka, through the Ceripashina peak, we climb down to the valley of Leshnica. During winter conditions, the access from Popova Shapka to Leshnica, depending on the snow, for well prepared alpinists, lasts from 3 to 10 hours.
Accommodation. In the Leshnica valley there are several facilities which offer comfortable accommodation, and the same can be visited only by previous notification. Besides those, there are several sheepfolds which are relatively comfortable. The entrance in the alpine tracks is distanced about 30 to 45 minutes from the accommodation facilities.
Simply Leshnica is worth visiting.
Additional information can be obtained from the alpine association. 
 

SOLUNSKA GLAVA

Solunska Glava is the most noticeable alpine site, situated in the central part of the country on the Jakupica maintain.

Solunska Glava in fact is a peak of the Jakupica maintain with its height above the sea level of 2540m. The alpine site is the left part of the peak which is a kind of amphitheater with its width of around 5km and height of 500 to 1000m.

There are two parts at the south rock of Solunska Glava: the first one is massive and more compact and it faces southwest and the other is facing southeast.

The length of the rock is between 250 to 700m. According to its composition, the rock is made of lime, having fragility that varies in different parts. There are about twenty alpine directions, all being not adequately protected, in situ.  The biggest problems of this rock are still waiting for their realization.

The Solunska Glava can only be climbed by well prepared alpinists, due to the complicated access to the rock through a wild and inaccessible corridor in the period distanced 3 to 5 hours from the Mountain house. Climbing down the rock is easy through mountainous terrain, distanced 2 to 3 hours from the Cheplez Mountain house.

With its complete ambient, the quality of climbing up, the access and climbing down the rock, Solunska Glava very much resembles to the rocks of the Tamar valley or to the North Triglav Rock in Slovenia.

Access. The best starting point to the rock is the Mountain house Cheplez which is 1445m above the sea level and the same can be reached through bad regional road from Bogomila village (50 km southwest from Veles), through Nezilovo village or through Papradishte village. It takes about 1 hour to drive down the road by vehicle from Bogomila to the Mountain house.
On foot, you can reach the Mountain house also by train from the Oreshje station (the first station after Bogomila), and afterwards you can follow the marked road  to the Nezilovo village, and then follow the marked mountain track to the Cheplez Mountain house. The access time is about 3 to 4 hours.

The best accommodation is provided in the Cheplez Mountain house, having capacity of 50 beds, open during the whole year.

The access from the Mountain house Cheplez to the rock isn’t simple, but the housekeeper can give you enough instructions. The access goes along the Babuna river spring, then along the central canyon over the spring, in wild area, overcoming obstacles of II and III degree, finally reaching the amphitheatre bottom below the rock.
The best climbing period is the beginning of June till the end of September. The rock is characterized with its micro-climate and frequent rainy showers. The temperature during the summer is adequate to the mountain height.

OSTRA KARPA (THE SHARP ROCK), STOGOT

Ostra karpa is really unique site in our country. It is situated in 20km long rocky massif on Selechka planina, north and southwest from Prilep. The rock is made of mixed granite and it offers excellent conditions for enjoy while climbing- clean free climbing.
The rock is 1300m above the sea level, exposing its parts towards all world sides, thus enable climbing during the whole year. The length of the alpine tracks is about 150m, having difficulties ranging from II and III degree. It has relatively good protection in situ, but it is necessary to carry enough equipment with you as friends, nuts and eventually piton.  
The region is mainly pure and it offers grate possibilities for extreme sport climbing on tracks being more then 100m long.
There are number of accesses.
The one access is from the city Prilep, through the Selce village, along the marked alpine track, for about 3 hours.
The other access is also from the city Prilep, along the regional road to the Mariovo region, then along unpaved road to the Monastery St. Nikola over the Prilepec village. From the monastery we can see the mountain valley on left, up to the wide corridor below the rocks. Afterwards, you have to follow the corridor to the rocks. The access time is 1 hour from the Monastery.
Accommodation. The best accommodation is at the St. Nikola Monastery, which is not always clean enough. Also there is possibility to cam with tents at the rocks plateau.

PATISHKA REKA

            Patishka Reka is situated on 40 km distance from Skopje. With its specific organization of the ice, the Great Corridor provides excellent conditions for climbing of the directions with different weighs and a variety of climbing techniques. Its length is above 150 meters.
            The length of the bare rock is approximately 200 meters. There are perfect conditions for climbing in the summer period particularly due to its north exposure and the pleasant climate, while, in winter it represents an original “copy” of the inaccessible Alp rocks.
            Nature created this amphitheatre as a terrain suitable for training of the beginners. Therefore, a number of exercise fields can be established here, where the techniques for climbing iced areas can be practiced, but also particular complex combinations can be climbed in some of the corridors higher that 200m.

PLOCHA SITE

This site is located in the vicinity of the regional road Radovish-Shtip, at the crossroads near the village Brest and Shopur.

The site is at a distance of 12 km from Radovish and 20 km from Shtip, and the same can be reached from Negotino.

There are two possible accesses to the rock, one is from the barracks’ side which leads under the barracks and is marked so you can reach the rock underneath for 15 minutes, and the other is from the monastery’s side, going down the asphalt road, approximately 300 meters, and afterwards you climb the marked mountain path to reach the small plate and then continue to the big rock.

The rock is on 350 meters above the sea level.

The composition of the rock is granite, partly mixed with basalt, and is considered to be erosive, but all in all is compact.

The site is suitable for organizing elementary and advanced alpine and sport climbers.

The weigh of the alpine directions is from 3 to 6 according to the UIAA, with a length of 50 to 80 meters.